These instructions apply to both the high waist and the low waist contoured waistband.
Before beginning construction, make a decision about the waistband style. The pattern is designed for an overlap of the waistband at the center front opening. This can be changed in the pattern. The extension in the right front waistband piece is needed to cover the fly extension. The extension in the left front waistband can be trimmed so that the waistband finishes flush with the edge of the fly front at the center front. You can also alter the width of the extension for a different look.
Determine the width of the extension by the size of the button if you want the button to be centered at the center front line.
1. Cut two waistbands, one for the outside of the pants and one for the inside, as a facing.
2. Interface the outer waistband pieces. Cut interfacing across corners so the interfacing is inside the waistband corners. Then trim the seam allowances of the interfacing to 1/4". Fuse to outer waistband pieces. If using sew-in interfacing, baste to pieces through the center with two lines of basting. If fabric is very soft and flexible, interface the inside waistband also. On the inside waistband, machine stitch interfacing to waistband pieces rather than basting. Use three lines of stitching for the machine stitches on the inside of the waistband.
3. Sew outside waistband pieces together at side seams. Sew inside waistband pieces together at side seams. Press all seams open. Leave in basting stitches until waistband is fully assembled.
4. Sew outer waistband to inner waistband at center front seams and top edge seam. Trim corners and grade seam allowances to reduce bulk. Press seams open.
5. Sew outer waistband to pants at waistline seams matching notches and seamlines. Reduce bulk by trimming and grading seam allowances as needed.
6. Press waistline seam allowances up into waistband. Turn under inner waistband seam allowance at waistline and stitch closed by hand. Press and topstitch if desired. Finish with buttons and buttonholes or with hooks and snaps.